KATAHDIN

Flexing our muscles on The Knifes Edge

The Mountain was angry my friends, fierce gusty wind gales turned into thunder and then to rain... ok, this was not so, the weather was actually perfect, but I liked my pre-written bad weather intro so much, I needed to use it.

And with that said...  After 6 months of planning and much anticipation, we have arrived at the gate of Baxter State Park to begin our Katahdin adventure. At the ranger Station, I pick up a copy of "Wildnotes", the visitors guide to Baxter State Park.  I am immediately stuck by the fact that it had no advertising, not a one! It gives visitors helpful hints on things like what to do in the event there's no outhouse around ("poop, it isn't fun to talk about, but better to talk about it than to step in it") , how to avoid and manage bear encounters, ect, ect.  Those are helpful tidbits in the wilds of Baxter State Park, but as I read further I become intrigued by the discussion about Governor Percival Proctor Baxter, whose name has become synonymous with both the Park and the highest knob on Katahdin, known as Baxter Peak.

Wildnotes mentions that Gov. Baxter, who as governor donated a  large parcel of land (Baxter State Park) to the people of Maine intended to keep that land "forever wild":

Gov. Baxter

"I seek to provide against commercial exploitation... hotels, advertising, hot-dog stands.. and the trappings of unpleasant civilization"

"Everything in connection with the park must be left simple and natural"

"I want it used but in the right unspoiled way"

And my favorite:

"Man is born to die. His works are short-lived. Buildings crumble, monuments decay, and wealth vanishes, but Katahdin in all it's glory forever shall remain the mountain of the people of Maine."

Gov. Baxter was also an opponent of the Klu Klux Klan, who supported his political opponent and eventual successor to the governorship.  I mention this because it too says something about the character of the man.

From the Visitors gate, we travel 16 miles (driving between 5-20 mph) on unpaved and rugged roads to our campsite. My camping/hiking companions Dan & Meena were forced drive up in their Mini, due to air conditioning issues with their more rugged Subaru.  The Mini showed the effects of the park drive, as upon our arrival to the campsite, it's muffler was hanging low, looking sort of like a tired hikers sagging tongue.  The camp has no running water, a clean outhouse and a ranger station, where you can buy firewood (outside wood is strictly forbidden from entering the park)and nothing else.  No tee-shirts or bumper stickers to be purchased, no snack shack, ect... if you don't bring it, you don't have it! Thank you Gov. Baxter!!!

Our humble Roaring Brook living-quarters

After making camp, we have a great meal, pasta for everybody but me.  I break out my pre-made Whole Foods vegan grub.  Oh, on the way up, we stopped at Whole Foods (my friend Cliff would be proud!) in Portland, where I quickly became a kid in a candy store, since NH is Whole Foods deprived!!! Fellow hiker & passenger Peter (he of pizza and hot-dog purchase at the summit of Mt Washington 2 weeks prior) joins me in Whole Foods and I think I may have made a glimmer of headway in bringing him around to healthier eating, as he purchased ( and enjoyed) some awesome vegan foods.

Prior and after dinner, we hydrate, drinking crazy amounts of water per person.  As you can imagine, the early morning conversation revolved around the world record amount of times we each left our tents during the night for "bio-breaks".

4:00 am, I see a shadowy figure standing outside my tent, shaking keys in a ghost-like fashion and in a Steven King character-like voice I hear a the command "Neil, Neil.. it's time to get up Neil, time to get up".
Oatmeal & tea awaits!!!  At 6:00 am we sign the hikers log and off we go, our anxiously awaited attempt to climb Mt Katadhin begins.

The Helon Taylor Trail:    The trek begins on the Helon Taylor Trail, a trail named after H.N. Taylor, long time superintendent of Baxter State Park.  This trail gives you very little warm-up, you are subjected to an immediate sharp grade up, taking you through very cool forest and scrub.  Large boulders litter the trail, but I wouldn't consider the initial footing rugged.  Views of Katahdin are not very prevalent on the drive up or driving through the park to the Roaring Brook camp grounds, but as we continue to assent the Helon Taylor, we get our first good views of the amazing Mt. Katahdin.

Our first good view f Katahdin from Helon-Taylor

This view, while impressive and awe-inspiring is nothing compared to what was yet to come.  As we ascend the fairly steep Helon Taylor trail, we begin to exceed tree-line.  We are now traveling through huge boulder fields and rock scrabble.  The footing is rough but not treacherous. 

The gang heads up Helon Taylor through the boulder fields

Views of the mountain are now everywhere.  And then, wow moment #1, we pop out into a clearing and the first of what will become an endless environment of astonishing scenery appears in front of us.

Dan, a.k.a Ansel Adams records the first of many spectacular views

We are now above tree-line and heading toward a very steep rock-footed incline that will bring us to the summit of Pamola Peak.  At first glance this incline makes us pause, look at each other and in one way or another, we each say "whoa, holy shit!!!"  Gulp!!!

At this point, adrenaline takes over me and I head up the rocks to Pamola Peak, in what for me was world-record pace. What awaits me on the Peak may be one of the great views on any mountain anywhere..  I've seen pictures of it, I've watched video of it but your first sighting of The Knife's Edge is literally life and mind altering!!!!  As I await arrival of my hiking partners, others appear and their reactions are study in the of expressions of awe.. dropping jaws, wide open eyes, hugs and the ever present "Holy Shit!!!"I watch closely and smile as my folks arrive and I observe their own personal "Holy Shits"!!!    We rejoice on the peak, "Bizzaro Ralph" (Bizarro is the trail name I've given him) attends to some budding blisters and we sit and eat accompanied by a view that is second to none (so we think!).  

Now the real work is about to Start.

Chimney Peak:  

Descending the backside of Pamola is a very steep challenging decline requiring great concentration and maneuvering.  A footing or balance mistake could result in very unwanted consequences.  Once down Pamola, you now are required to climb a short but intimidating peak that shoots straight up right in front of you.  This is known as Chimney Peak.  I was looking for words to describe the Chimney, but couldn't come up with a better  one paragraph description than the one I found on a Summit Post writing, so I'll thank the author and use his/her words:  "Chimney Peak is the small sharp peak adjacent to Pamola, separated by a narrow gap or "chimney". The chimney provides the most technically challenging section of a hike along the Knife Edge, but in good weather requires no special skill beyond an ability not to think about falling."

The approach to Pamola Peak

I arrive @ The summit of Pamola Peak and I'm treated to my first sighting of The Knifes Edge

I am alone with my thoughts as I head across the Knifes Edge (photo by Dan Szczney)

The Knifes Edge:  After successfully climbing the Chimney (to high-fives from strangers who got there before me), it is now time to cross the rest of the Knifes Edge.  I've been thinking about this and training for this so long it is very surreal that I am actually standing on it's surface.  Meena mentions something about my state-of-mind being very zen-like.  I felt zen-like.

The Knifes edge is a 1.2 mile boulder scramble with areas so narrow you have room for your shoe and not much more.  To each side of you is jagged "Lord of The Rings" looking rock spires that would not be hospitable to a falling hiker.  At times you have to sit on jagged edged rocks to maneuver or set up your next move.  I commented to Pete that it's a weird feeling to have a jagged rock pull your butt open and having wind rushing in from both sides!  There are ups and downs as you head toward the ultimate destination, the summit of Katahdin at Baxter Peak.   I've encountered ups and downs on other mountains, we've referred to them as "PUD's", pointless up's and downs.  There is nothing pointless about these ups and downs, they are part of a system of rock larger than us and I quickly realize it is not my place to ask why!  Your mind is all-in as you cross this ridge, it has to be, you become a part of the environment.  One misplaced step or a wrong maneuver can lead to serious physical and/or mental problems.

Left to right: Palmola Peak, Chimney Peak & The Knifes Edge from South Peak

I ascend to the summit of South Peak, there is nobody else up there, so I take this opportunity to jump into a hole between 2 rocks and as I watch the world around me I get rid of some of the water I've been drinking.  To this point the water release has been only in the form of sweat!  Time for lunch, energy for the final push to the summit of Katahdin.  

The summit is close.  From South Peak it looks like most of the ascents hardest work is done.  The next stretch is scrabbly in footing but the elevation gain is moderate.  I am in great spirits and feel strong as I make my way up to the top of the great state of Maine.  I arrive to hoots and hollers of congratulations from strangers already sitting on the summit.  I'm there!!!  Mission Accomplished but unlike the famous guy who said that before me, I realize the rest of the story ( the descent) will be very challenging as well.

This is what awaits you on either side of the Knifes Edge if you make a mistake

Pete & I head up the Knifes Edge (Photo Dan Szczney)

Ridge Walking Katahdin Style!

Standing on top of the State of Maine 

Everybody on the summit is taking photos of everyone else. A couple of girls ask me to shoot a picture of them at the summit sign.  Before I do one asks me how her hair looks.  I inform her "it looks fabulous, like you just climbed Mt. Katadhin".  Laughs.  I congratulate a group of Thru-hikers who are joyfully drinking energy drinks and sitting on the the last of a long list of summits they've walked from Georgia to Maine. One by one my partners arrives... smiles, hand slaps and hugs all around, pure bliss.  A tired and Euphoric Dan hugs the summit sign.  After a half hour or so of rest, pics and celebratory conversation, it's time to begin the 5.5 mile trek "home".  We decide the best way for us to descend is via the saddle trail, the "easier " way down.

Saddle Trail:  The backside of Baxter Peak reminded me of the approach to Mt Washington.  The first mile heading to Saddle is a huge otherworldly rock-pile not particularly steep but tricky and exhausting footing for tired and achy feet.   As you head toward Saddle an impressive view leads your way.  Looking down into the bowl, you are treated to a view of the huge, aggressively-steep rock-slide known as Cathedral.  I now see why tired legs would be wise to avoid coming down this behemoth.  However, my next Katadhin trip goal is to ascend via Cathedral, do the Knifes Edge the opposite way and descend down Pamola.  

Heading Down the backside of Katahdin, Cathedral is the white gash to the left

The top section of the Saddle is an approximate 1.5 mile rock slide that rivals the likes of the Owls Head slide (so much for easy). I pass a tired group of hikers laboring down the slide.  The rest of my group is taking it slow and deliberate, but I feel the need to try to get down as fast as I can, so I wave my hiking sticks in their direction, they respond and off I go, doing the rest of the hike solo and rest-break free.  I push myself hard down the slide, traveling at a personally aggressive pace.  I'm pressing myself to the edge of my personal physical ability, while keeping focused on not idiotically injuring myself.  After descending the slide and and traveling back under tree line, the trail becomes a semi-tedious, a never ending rock-lined pain in the ass.  To break up the monotony, I decide to run, rock hop and pole vault when I can.

Oh good!!!! Chimney Pond, only 2 miles to go.  Those 2 miles become the longest 2 miles of my life.  The terrain is flat but rocky and my mental state is now saying "get me too my tent!!!"..  A trail sign, .1 mile to the Roaring Brook camp ground, yeah!!!  Another sign .2 miles to Roaring brook camp ground..  WTF!!!!  Finally, the ranger station!!! My tent!! My Cooler!!!  A Beer!!!!  

Sometime later, the rest of the gang arrives, they have some food and we all sleep well (no Bio breaks tonight!)

The next morning Ralph heads home early, but the rest of us begin our long ride home by gathering at the Appalachian Trail (AT) Cafe in Millinocket for breakfast and cell phone service!!  The AT Cafe is a popular spot for hikers and trekkers. Katadhin is last call for Thru-hikers completing the AT from Georgia and somebody needs to gather them up. There are woman in the cafe wearing t-shirts that say " My son is an AT hiker".  They are obviously there to greet their returning sons after a 2,160 mile walk in the park. We chat with some other AT Hikers and a bunch of hikers we ran into on the trail.. smiles and good vibes all around..  deprived of cell phone service for over 2 days, Dan, Pete and I realize we are addicted to social media and finally have an opportunity to check our phones while "Mother" Meena scolds us.  I sneak a few photos on to Facebook before Meena notices...  Back to reality! For those of you heading to Katadhin, the coffee served in the upstairs of the AT Cafe is worth the stop in it's self.  A return trip to Whole Foods and back to Gilford...  The trip is done, but the memories are just evolving and maturing.

From the summit of Katadhin, one can look in all directions, seemingly hundreds of miles all ways and see absolutely nothing man-made.. nothing.  Not a building, phone tower, hotel, hostel, lodge, restaurant, hot dog stand, shopping mall, Applebees, Walmart or McDonald's... nothing not a thing..   Awesome, awesome, fucking awesome!!!!!!!!

Pete & me (photo by Dan Szczney)

PS: I did buy a "I hiked Katadhin" sticker at the AT Cafe, so I'm not as holier than thou as I make myself out to be.  The sticker is now proudly displayed on my favorite water bottle!